It’s suddenly a bit breezy in here (broken front window) Part 2

Part 1 of this project outlined the process for removing the front window from the driver-side door (passenger-side would be the same).  Here, I will detail the assembly stage.  Through much trial and error, I discovered the order in which all the parts go in is not as forgiving as the order in which they came out, so I hope this post will save someone quite a bit of time and frustration.

After the job is done, but before gluing the vapor barrier back in place, I HIGHLY recommend verifying that the door still functions – in all manners intended.  Why do I make this recommendation?  Well, it turns out I buggered the latch mechanism somehow and currently cannot open the door from inside the cockpit.  It still works from the outside, but that means I must lower the window to reach the outer door handle to let myself out.  At some point this spring, I will have to dissemble the door card and remove, yet again, the vapor barrier to find out what happened.  The fun will just not stop 🙂

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The first piece to return to its place is the outer scraper and trim.  Fitting it the door is fairly simple as the tabs for the chrome trim simply slide into the door frame.  At this stage, only install the outer scraper and bottom half of the trim.

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The scraper tension clips take a little bit of finger pressure to pop into the square holes in the door frame.  They clip in with a satisfying snap to verify they’re in tight.

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I used some blue masking tape (painters tape) to keep the chrome trim out of the way and prevent it from bending.

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With the outer scraper secure, I installed all the felt channel clips with the exception of the top clip nearest to the vent window top screw hole.  That clip will go in after the vent window is installed.

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The clips have a little tab that fits into the small holes in the door.

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I tried to return the clips in the same position as they came out (meaning the rounded part of the hole in the clip faced the same direction) but am not sure if that is required..

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Place the tab in the door hole and push in the direction the tab faces (towards the curved side of the hole in the clip).  In the photo, this would be in a down, towards the ground, direction.

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The clips don’t require much force to seat them.

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Once the clips are in place, the felt channel can be installed.  Feed the felt into the door from the rear of the window opening and slide it into the rear window channel (bolted to the lower rear of the door frame; see labels in the picture after the following photo).  The felt should be low enough in the door so it always remains below the top of the window when rolled down.  Since I used the same felt, it had a crease that allowed me to approximate the correct position, but I’d say the felt stopped maybe 4-5 inches below the window sill.  Once set in the rear window channel, stuff the rest of the felt into the retaining clips in the window opening while making sure the length in the top of the door ends 1/4 – 1/2 inch after the top vent window screw hole (it can be trimmed later).  However, do not actually install the top section of felt in the door quite yet, rather hold it loosely in place with tape to keep the felt out of the way.

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Reinstalling the window is a breeze, I just slid it into the door cavity enough to clear the bottom of the door and let it rest on the bottom of the door frame.

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To make room for the vent window frame (which also serves as the front window channel), I pushed the glass back into the rear window channel.  If I remember correctly, the felt I installed in the rear window channel came down to the big hole on the top left of the picture.

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The window regulator is difficult to install with the vent window in place, so after the main window was comfortably resting in the rear channel, I installed the regulator in the door, but did not bolt the window on at this point.  Then came the vent window which I started by angling the vent frame back and inserting just the tip of the lower portion.

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The lower bolt tab must clear part of the door structure, a requirement that gave me a few fits before I succeeded.   Some recommend taping the chrome to protect against scratches, but I found being careful worked too.

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With the right amount of patience, the tab slipped into place…

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… and I rotated the frame into position.  At this point, I installed the upper chrome trim and, with the palm of my hand, gently nudged the vent frame into the front of the door, aligned the top, and screwed in the top retaining screw.

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With a little more nudging, the bottom bolt hole lined up, and I inserted and tightened the bolt.

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The last felt retaining clip was installed behind the vent window.  This was…

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… followed by installing the felt channel and inner window scraper.

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Trim the top felt channel to fit snugly against the vent window frame, and also make sure the scrapers abut the vent window.  Following the installation of all the felt, scrapers, and vent window, I bolted the window to the regulator.  At this point, conduct function tests of the window and door to make sure everything works correctly.  If I performed this step, I would have discovered the latch problem and been able to fix it before gluing the vapor barrier and reinstalling the door panel, window crank handle, etc…  If all seems in good working order, put the rest of the door back together and hit the road!  (See replacing regulator post for vapor barrier/door panel reassembly).



One thought on “It’s suddenly a bit breezy in here (broken front window) Part 2

  1. Pingback: It’s suddenly a bit breezy in here (broken front window) Part 1 | Zero to Sixty . . .Eventually

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